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TURKISH DELIGHT ON A MOONLIT NIGHT?

8/11/2017

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How many of you remember the 1953 swing-style song "Now it's Istanbul, not Constantinople" and the line, “Now it’s Turkish Delight on a moonlit night”? Probably not many, but you still may have heard of Turkish Delight. [Not the Erotica kind]

WHAT IS TURKISH DELIGHT?
Actually, Turkish Delight, or Lokum, is a family of absolutely yummy confections concocted of a gel made from starch and sugar and dusted with icing, sugar, copra, or powdered cream of Tartar, to prevent clinging.
The Turkish term for the confection, rahat lokum, literally means "throat's ease".

Oh, I’m gaining weight just writing this.

When I was in Turkey I visited the Spice Market (Misir Carsisi) in Istanbul and learned there are many varieties of Turkish Delight, consisting largely of chopped dates, pistachios and hazelnuts or walnuts bound by the gel and most frequently flavored with rose water, mastic, lemon, cinnamon or mint.

Originally, honey and molasses were used for the sweeteners, and water and flour as the binding agents, and rosewater, lemon peel, and bitter orange as the most common flavors.  They are usually made in bars or logs and cut into approximately 1” square pieces.  But I saw several other shapes labeled as Turkish Delight. The following are just a few.
ORIGINS
The Turkish words lokma and lokum are derived from the Turkic luqma(t), meaning morsel and mouthful.  Egypt, Bulgaria, Syria, Greece, Romania, Bosnia and Herzegovina all have their versions of the delight and their own names.  In English, it was formerly called Lumps of Delight.

Its precise origins are unknown.  Like most foods, it no doubt existed in some form, for centuries, made from locally available ingredients.  Turkish legend has it that a Turkish sultan, tired of rumbling of discontent with his harem, summoned all confectioners in the land and ordered them to come up with a new dessert to quell the unrest.  As a result, lokum was born.


The sweet as we know it today is credited to Bekir Effendi, who moved from his hometown Kastamonu, Turkey (although some references say Anatolia – maybe that’s the region) to Istanbul and opened a confectionery shop in 1776.  He was a hit.  Soon, fashionable ladies began giving Turkish Delight to their friends in special lace handkerchiefs.  These were also used as acts of courting between couples, as documented by traditional Turkish love songs of that era.  The confection was introduced to the western world in the 19th century. Again, unconfirmed stories tell of an unknown Briton become fond of the delicacy, purchased cases of lokum, and shipped them to Britain under the name Turkish Delight.

Turkish Delight can be a euphemism for hashish candy, as hashish (an extract of cannabis) is sometimes thought to have been an ingredient in the original recipe.  The candy’s other claim to fame is its mention in C.S. Lewis’ "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" where the White Witch tempts Edmund with Turkish Delight.

RECIPES
And speaking of recipes, here are a few.  I’ve never made Turkish Delight, or seen it made, but the ones I had in Turkey all had pistachios or other nuts in them.


● Recipe 1
From http://mideastfood.about.com/od/dessertssweetspastries/r/turkishdelight.htm
by Saad Fayed, About.com.Guide


Since I wrote this blog a few years ago, I checked this website recently. Since it is current date-wise, I'm not sure that the recipe posted now [July 2017] is the same as the one which follows. The following photo [by Rosemary Calvert/Photographer's Choice RF/Getty Images] is with the current recipe.

Picture
Preparation time:         15 minutes
Cooking time:               1 hour, 10 minutes
Total Time:                   1 hour, 25 minutes




Ingredients:
4 cups granulated sugar                              1 1/4 cups cornstarch
1 teaspoon cream of tartar                           4 1/4 cups water
1 tablespoon lemon juice                             1 1/2 tablespoons rosewater
1 cup confectioners sugar                           Vegetable oil or shortening


Preparation:
In a 9 inch baking pan, grease the sides and bottom with vegetable oil or shortening. Line with wax paper and grease the wax paper.

In a saucepan, combine lemon juice, sugar and 1 1/2 cups water on medium heat. Stir constantly until sugar dissolves. Allow mixture to boil. Reduce heat to low and allow to simmer, until the mixture reaches 240 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat and set aside.

Combine cream of tartar, 1 cup corn starch and remaining water in saucepan over medium heat. Stir until all lumps are gone and the mixture begins to boil. Stop stirring when the mixture has a glue like consistency.

Stir in the lemon juice, water and sugar mixture. Stir constantly for about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and allow to simmer for 1 hour, stirring frequently.

Once the mixture has become a golden color, stir in rosewater. Pour mixture into wax paper lined pan. Spread evenly and allow to cool overnight.

Once it has cooled overnight, sift together
confectioners sugar and remaining cornstarch.

Turn over baking pan containing Turkish delight onto clean counter or table and cut with oiled knife into one inch pieces.

Coat with confectioners sugar mixture. Serve or store in airtight container in layers separated with wax or parchment paper.


● Recipe 2
From April 1997 Gourmet at: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pistachio-Rosewater-Turkish-Delight-14057 

Picture
Cuisine:                                 Middle Eastern
Dietary considerations:         Low sodium
Yield:                                     Makes about 36

This recipe is called non-evil Turkish Delight. 

Ingredients
Four 1/4-ounce envelopes unflavored gelatin (about 3 tablespoons)
1/2 cup shelled natural pistachios
2 3/4 cups cold water
1 cup cornstarch
Four 1/4-ounce envelopes unflavored gelatin (about 3 tablespoons)
3 cups granulated sugar
5 teaspoons rosewater
1 drop red food coloring if desired
1/3 cup confectioners' sugar plus additional if necessary

Preparation
Oil an 8-inch square baking pan and line with plastic wrap. Oil plastic wrap.

In a small saucepan of boiling water blanch pistachios 3 minutes and drain in a sieve. Rinse pistachios under cold running water and pat dry. Rub skins off pistachios.

In a small bowl sprinkle gelatin over 1/2 cup cold water and let soften. In another small bowl stir together 1/8 cup cold water and cornstarch.

In a 4-quart heavy kettle stir together remaining 1 1/2 cups cold water, granulated sugar, and rosewater and bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Stir in gelatin and cornstarch mixtures and boil over moderate heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, 10 minutes (mixture will be very thick).

Stir in pistachios and food coloring and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Pour mixture into baking pan, smoothing top with spatula, and cool. Chill confection, loosely covered, until set, about 4 hours.

Sift 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar onto a work surface. Invert confection onto sugar and peel off plastic wrap. Cut confection into 1/8-inch cubes. Sift remaining confectioners' sugar over cubes and toss to coat. Wrap cubes in parchment paper (do not use wax paper, plastic wrap, or airtight containers because confections will weep) and chill.

Turkish delight may be made 2 weeks ahead and kept chilled, wrapped in parchment paper.

Just before serving, recoat Turkish delight in additional confectioners' sugar.

ENJOY!


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    Author R. Ann Siracusa

    Novelist, retired architect and urban planner, world traveler, quilter, owl collector, devoted wife-mother-grandmother, great-grandmother, and, according to some, wild-assed liberal.

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